Food

Chef Josh Boutwood’s vision for Ember’s fiery fare

Chef Josh Boutwood on the mushroom dish he tried to kill, the salmon heads he loves, and why perfection would be the saddest day of his career.

Chef Josh Boutwood with a curled mustache stands in Ember’s kitchen between grills of resting meats
Chef Josh Boutwood in Ember’s kitchen, between the grills. Photos by Avee Navarro Tan

Why on earth would a chef try to discontinue a certain item on the menu that every customer keeps ordering? That is madness, I tell you. Or it may just simply be how Chef Josh Boutwood’s culinary mind operates.

“I hate it when every single table (does that),” says the chef, shaking his head. “It says that it’s so good, and I wanted to be rebellious and remove it.” For Boutwood, the culinary experience is about discovery, encouraging diners to explore new flavors. However, after hearing the pleas of his team, he relented. “Two years later, it’s still on the Ember menu,” he says with a smile, accepting that some dishes are simply too beloved to let go.

Whole grilled turbot on a white plate, glossed with brown butter and scattered with capers
Grilled turbot with rich brown butter and tangy capers

The dish in question—a mushroom-based creation—was a last-minute addition that was never meant to become a staple. In the frantic days before Ember’s opening in Greenbelt 3, Boutwood found himself with an excess of mushrooms originally intended for another recipe. With characteristic spontaneity, he chopped them up, sautéed them with garlic, and added a rich garlic emulsion. The finishing touch was a rare pumpkin cheese, creating a dish that perfectly captured the essence of Ember: simple, unexpected, and deeply satisfying. Although it was never meant to be a mainstay, it now embodies the restaurant’s ethos, remaining on the menu as a testament to the power of improvisation and the unexpected charm of a chef’s whims.

Meatballs piled with fresh arugula in a white bowl resting on a kitchen wire rack
Tender meatballs with fresh arugula and a hint of horseradish

The original idea for Ember is for it to be a sophisticated version of Savage, another Boutwood restaurant. An elevated grill house, if you will.

In many ways, Ember represents a duality in Chef Boutwood’s culinary philosophy. He pairs sleek, sophisticated design with bold, rustic cooking techniques. The open fire that serves as the heart of his kitchen brings a rawness to the experience, while the dishes themselves are deceptively simple, each one meticulously crafted. As he describes, “We went on a tagline that it’s great ingredients that are cooked simply and ultimately delicious.” For Boutwood, cooking isn’t about overcomplicating things. It’s about using fresh, high-quality ingredients and letting them speak for themselves—a philosophy that is evident in every dish that leaves his kitchen.

Salmon head halves coated in golden curry lemon sauce, served with a charred lemon on a white plate
Grilled salmon head in a curry lemon sauce

“We have this wonderful organic farm that grows our Romaine lettuce for us. This octopus dish is very reminiscent of my upbringing in Spain. (These ingredients make up) cuisine that is easy to understand and humbly delicious.”

You’d characterize what we the diners were served at Ember as relatively simple dishes (a layup to put together if you have the skills of Boutwood), but they are done very well. Octopus with harissa and lemon; meatballs with arugula and horseradish; turbot circular fish with brown butter and caper; and the flavorful steaks (ribeye, wagyu, tenderloin), which are excellent with one or five glasses of Aperol spritz. Chef Josh says, “Something really rustic that I absolutely love is a dish of salmon heads. You know the head of a salmon when it’s grilled? It’s got all these little morsels of meat around the cheek area and around the top of the eye socket. That’s probably one of my favorite dishes.”

Three views of Ember’s steak: a smiling server presents a plate, hands slice the beef, the dish sits plated
Sizzling steak is prepared to perfection, ready to be sliced and served.

Through his food, Chef Boutwood creates a sense of theater, and just as in a good movie, Ember’s guests are drawn into an experience that is vibrant, unpredictable, and undoubtedly topnotch. It’s a place where memories are made, where dishes evolve, and where the unexpected can sometimes turn into a classic. And there’s something for everyone.

Chicken fingers, a slider and mac and cheese with crisps and dipping sauces on a dark tabletop
Crowd-pleasing kids’ menu items: chicken fingers, sliders, mac & cheese

“It’s the only restaurant of mine that has a children’s menu. And the reason for that is because, one time, I was at home on a Sunday and I shouted to my kids who were upstairs in their bedroom, ‘Where do you want to eat lunch? Test Kitchen, Savage or Ember?’ And then my daughter screams down, ‘Ember!’ My son goes, ‘No, there’s nothing on that menu that I eat.’ And I was like, wait a minute, he’s right.”

Sliced house-made sourdough loaf on a white plate at a set table with water glasses behind
House-made sourdough

So, from the culinary imaginings of one Chef Josh Boutwood come a selection of chicken fingers, sliders, or mac & cheese. But not even these pop meals are presented ordinarily.

Ember’s kitchen and service team gathered behind a curved counter in the white-tiled open kitchen
Team Ember

“When a dish is out and it’s launched, we’re always going to find opportunities to make it better. And I think if we were to say, ‘This is the perfect dish,’ then we’re not doing our job right. Because there is no such thing as perfection when it comes to food. There are always ways to make things better. And that’s what we’ve been doing at Ember over this past year.”

With that statement, the chef saunters back to the kitchen to whip up another dish. He looks back and remarks, “It will be a very sad day once I achieve perfection. Because then I would lose that love for cooking.”

A version of this story first appeared in The Philippine Star, 2024. Print edition.

Back to Food

Keep reading

Collage of four plated dishes from The Test Kitchen, including cured meats, a glazed lamb shank and a pork chop

Inside a kitchen constantly put to the test

Ever the explorer, Chef Josh Boutwood treats The Test Kitchen as a culinary laboratory rather than a typical restaurant.

By Igan D'Bayan
Chef Josh Boutwood, in a white t-shirt and canvas apron with a handlebar mustache, stands before the blue-tiled open-fire grill of his kitchen

Chef Josh Boutwood’s appetite for evolution

The chef behind Manila’s most restless kitchens on why he never designs a menu until he is standing in the room, and the chapter he is closing now.

By Igan D'Bayan
A curled fried octopus tentacle with a lemon wedge and a dollop of aioli on a dark ceramic plate at Juniper in Ortigas

Drops of Juniper

Juniper, like its namesake botanical, weaves a story of depth, complexity, and quiet strength. It’s a restaurant, yes, but it’s also an exploration.

By Igan D'Bayan
Group portrait of TGI Fridays One Ayala team members in their black uniforms posing together inside the restaurant

Mojo risin’: A tale of set meals and endless mojitos

Bottomless mojitos, set meals and a little existential drift: an afternoon at TGI Fridays One Ayala, where P345 buys as many mojitos as the heat demands.

By Igan D'Bayan
Patrick Sim in a blue suit gestures toward a lavish dessert table of cakes, teapots and flowers, beneath a terracotta wall with birdcage lamps and neon script reading “A party without cake is just a meeting.”

Savoring secrecy at Secret Recipe

A Malaysian cafe built on one marble cheesecake returns to Manila, where laksa and rendang share a menu with Irish lamb shanks and tom yum

By Igan D'Bayan
The Bistro Group executives Lisa Ronquillo-Along and Divine Peralta smiling in front of a brightly lit modern restaurant interior

A night of dragon potions and Red Lotus eaters

A dinner of Sichuan Sour and Shanghai Spritz becomes a night of wild print-industry tales, at a resto-bar built for lowering your defenses.

By Igan D'Bayan
Chef BoonHoe Bun standing with arms crossed in his chef uniform and tall white hat in front of a blue and white porcelain patterned background

The dim sum pairing is a lob fest at Summer Palace

At Edsa Shangri-La’s Summer Palace, resident master chef Andy Liew turns dim sum into a study in patience, tradition and the art of the perfect pairing.

By Igan D'Bayan
Senator Loren Legarda standing between chefs Rhea and Jay Jay SyCip inside The Fatted Calf restaurant in Tagaytay

Farm to table, heart to heart

After a volcano, a pandemic and a lost lease, chefs Jay Jay and Rhea SyCip’s Fatted Calf finds its footing in Tagaytay, one farm-to-table plate at a time.

By Igan D'Bayan